As my travels through Vietnam continued, and my first experience of Tet began coming to a close, I found myself in a place, a time, and a memory that I knew was one of a kind.
4:20 pm:
After visiting some of the amazing local people around Sapa, we made our way to the Silver Waterfall. We climbed to the top, and there was less fog than there had been throughout the rest of the day. It was time for us to sit and reflect. We had some of Sapa's local sweet tea and some fried eggs which were much needed energy boosters after a long day of hiking around and constantly walking. We shared in a few moments, some of them filled only by the sound of the wind and crackle of the fires, others with words and thoughts about an unforgettable trip. Our day was coming to a close and it was time to get back to town, get cleaned up and eat. Everybody was hungry at this point.
7:15 pm:
Seven of us gathered and enjoyed a meal together at one of Sapa's many wonderful restaurants followed by a pub-crawl of sorts. Only three of us set out to the first pub. It was just us, one bartender and a pool table that was so crooked it made each game interesting. Two other patrons eventually showed up, stayed for a beer and left. Then, two of our friends from dinner joined us for a short time as well. They also eventually left, leaving the original three to start walking around, looking for another place to wet our whistles. Sapa isn't exactly a town with vibrant night-life, and it shouldn't be, but being out in the dark, with intense fog, and the quiet streets, vaguely lit by lamps too weak to penetrate that heavy mist, felt perfect. We were just looking for a place to spend a little more time and talk about a few more things as we knew our time together was starting to run out. We found a spot that was open and again, it was just us. We finished a final drink and stumbled back to the hotel for some rest.
8:37 am:
Time to start moving after a long night out, wandering around the streets of Sapa. We paid a little extra (VND 80,000) to have a heater in our room, and I'm glad we did. Even with the heater, this weather was COLD. It was time to eat breakfast and to figure out how we would make the trip from Sapa back to Lao Cai to catch our 6:05 pm train for Hanoi. We ate and then my friends left me alone and set out for a hike so that I could try to write about our experience thus far.
12:25 pm:
My friends returned from their hike, I had finished my story and was sitting down with a coffee. We went to Cha Pa Restaurant to enjoy a traditional meal. There were seven of us, and three of us would be leaving for Hanoi. It was time to eat, and say our goodbyes. The food was absolutely incredible. A wide array of dishes spread across the table and we dug in. The food was different than what you'd get in the other regions of Vietnam. The huge meal was satisfying the hunger in all of us. It was a time for appreciating all we had done together as we knew that for some of us the trip was coming to a close. Four would continue without us and two of our friends were leaving Vietnam soon. The moment came for our group to part ways. The Four who were staying went their separate way to continue their adventure, and we were preparing for an adventure of our own. We bought some wine in town to enjoy on the train and headed off to catch a bus to Lao Cai.
3:14 pm:
We got onto a bus and drove towards Lao Cai. The fog was thinning compared to the thick cover that blanketed the region on the previous day, and as we drove through the winding mountain roads, we were offered a view we were unable to see the day before. We talked about our train and what it would be like this time around. We weren't exactly excited about sleeping with cockroaches again, on thin, worn out mattresses in tiny steal beds that were entirely too small for us on a train that wasn't clean. However, you must make the best of things, and after all, we had wine, cards, a few beers and music to bring with us. Most importantly, we had each other, and the train had only made our travels even more memorable.
4:20 pm:
After visiting some of the amazing local people around Sapa, we made our way to the Silver Waterfall. We climbed to the top, and there was less fog than there had been throughout the rest of the day. It was time for us to sit and reflect. We had some of Sapa's local sweet tea and some fried eggs which were much needed energy boosters after a long day of hiking around and constantly walking. We shared in a few moments, some of them filled only by the sound of the wind and crackle of the fires, others with words and thoughts about an unforgettable trip. Our day was coming to a close and it was time to get back to town, get cleaned up and eat. Everybody was hungry at this point.
7:15 pm:
Seven of us gathered and enjoyed a meal together at one of Sapa's many wonderful restaurants followed by a pub-crawl of sorts. Only three of us set out to the first pub. It was just us, one bartender and a pool table that was so crooked it made each game interesting. Two other patrons eventually showed up, stayed for a beer and left. Then, two of our friends from dinner joined us for a short time as well. They also eventually left, leaving the original three to start walking around, looking for another place to wet our whistles. Sapa isn't exactly a town with vibrant night-life, and it shouldn't be, but being out in the dark, with intense fog, and the quiet streets, vaguely lit by lamps too weak to penetrate that heavy mist, felt perfect. We were just looking for a place to spend a little more time and talk about a few more things as we knew our time together was starting to run out. We found a spot that was open and again, it was just us. We finished a final drink and stumbled back to the hotel for some rest.
8:37 am:
Time to start moving after a long night out, wandering around the streets of Sapa. We paid a little extra (VND 80,000) to have a heater in our room, and I'm glad we did. Even with the heater, this weather was COLD. It was time to eat breakfast and to figure out how we would make the trip from Sapa back to Lao Cai to catch our 6:05 pm train for Hanoi. We ate and then my friends left me alone and set out for a hike so that I could try to write about our experience thus far.
12:25 pm:
My friends returned from their hike, I had finished my story and was sitting down with a coffee. We went to Cha Pa Restaurant to enjoy a traditional meal. There were seven of us, and three of us would be leaving for Hanoi. It was time to eat, and say our goodbyes. The food was absolutely incredible. A wide array of dishes spread across the table and we dug in. The food was different than what you'd get in the other regions of Vietnam. The huge meal was satisfying the hunger in all of us. It was a time for appreciating all we had done together as we knew that for some of us the trip was coming to a close. Four would continue without us and two of our friends were leaving Vietnam soon. The moment came for our group to part ways. The Four who were staying went their separate way to continue their adventure, and we were preparing for an adventure of our own. We bought some wine in town to enjoy on the train and headed off to catch a bus to Lao Cai.
3:14 pm:
We got onto a bus and drove towards Lao Cai. The fog was thinning compared to the thick cover that blanketed the region on the previous day, and as we drove through the winding mountain roads, we were offered a view we were unable to see the day before. We talked about our train and what it would be like this time around. We weren't exactly excited about sleeping with cockroaches again, on thin, worn out mattresses in tiny steal beds that were entirely too small for us on a train that wasn't clean. However, you must make the best of things, and after all, we had wine, cards, a few beers and music to bring with us. Most importantly, we had each other, and the train had only made our travels even more memorable.
Cheering with other passengers on the train
4:10 pm Lao Cai:
We arrived in Lao Cai knowing that we must eat out of necessity. We were quite full from the tremendous lunch in Sapa but we were getting ready to take an old rickety train and there would be no more chance for eating until tomorrow. First, we needed train tickets. We tracked down the ticket broker and asked for our tickets. He handed them over and we asked if there were any way to upgrade in hopes of making the ride a little more comfortable. "No. Full," is all he said. We asked if there were any other trains, "No. Full." We asked if he was sure, "No. Full." We laughed and walked away, our destinies had already been sealed so it was useless to resist, besides, it was time for some food. Everything was still closed for Tet so we entered a hotel to satisfy our needs. We made our way up to the tenth floor. This must have been the tallest building in town and the view from the restaurant and lounge was peaceful. We found a quiet table to pass the time until our train departed. After some food and a glass of wine, we decided that maybe we should get a little extra wine, just in case, so we bought another bottle. At about 5:57 pm, we were scrambling out of the elevator and hustling to the train that was due to leave in 8 minutes. We made it on just in time...
6:03 pm Ga Lao Cai Station:
We boarded the train with about two minutes left before departure. We searched for our room and found it. Kristina (one of my friends that was traveling with me) saw it first. "Oh no," is all she said. I was a few feet behind her and when I saw what she saw I laughed. Our cabin had three adults and a baby. This meant a few things: 1. No music 2. No drinking in the cabin 3. No playing poker in the cabin 4. Very likely, no sleeping in the cabin as crying babies in a crammed room aren't really conducive to rest. As other people, whom we didn't know, saw their rooms, reactions were similar.
There were many foreigners on the train and it seemed that most of them had believed they booked higher quality trains. This train looked like it had been in use since the 40's and had never been cleaned. The thin, little mats were worse off than the ones we had come in on. They were clearly not new and certainly not clean. Oh well! It was too late now, the train was moving and there was no other hope in getting to Hanoi for the next few days. We decided to stand in the hallway and discuss our options. There really weren't any, other than to open some wine. We didn't have a wine opener so we asked around. I came across one room that was packed with foreign tourists from places such as Chile, France, Singapore, and more. They were all miserable with the conditions, and at this point I was over it. I decided the only hope was to make the best of this trip. Besides, this old train was starting to grow on me.
I struck up a few conversations and a Frenchman offered me a wine opener. That solved one problem. I started mingling with some of the people and before long, it seemed as if every foreigner on the train was standing out in the hallway like us. It was beginning to get crowded and curious eyes were peaking out of their cabins wondering what was going on. We decided to search the train for a drink and snack cart. We headed out in opposite directions and one person whom I had given my number to called me and told me that in cabin 3, they were selling beer and snacks.
"This way," I shouted. We made our way towards number 3 and while walking, ran into even more foreigners who joined our parade towards the front of the train. People were surprised to see the long line of people navigating their way through the train. We received bewildered looks from many locals who hadn't experienced this on a train ride before. I don't know if anybody has. We reached the cart and ordered all of what was left of the beer. We then made our way back to cabin number 8, armed with more than enough to make the ride interesting. We decided to set up shop in between car number 8 and 9, using the space between the two cars to make our own club. We hung speakers from the ceiling, plugged in an ipod, turned on some jams, and talked the night away, eventually fading out until there was no one left. The train ride became a sight to remember, and the next thing we knew, we were awoken in Hanoi at 4:30 am. One of the wonderful things about traveling is the people you meet, and we had turned an ordinary train ride into a night nobody would ever forget.
4:30 am - Ga Hanoi Station:
There was supposed to be a ride picking us up from the train station to bring us to the hotel. There was nobody waiting. We weren't surprised by this as we had booked the hotel by phone while on the train and just hoped they held our room. Walking around in search of a hotel at this hour wasn't an exciting prospect. We grabbed a taxi and headed to the hotel. We arrived at the hotel and had to wake up the man who was sleeping behind the desk. He was tired and it took him a little while to figure out what to do with us, but finally we got our room. We then crashed, knowing that the next day was the last for two of my friends.
11:12 am - Hanoi:
It was time to wake up again, slightly battered and bruised from the constant traveling, but ready for our day. We had been invited to a special hot-pot dinner with a Vietnamese family. Like the whole trip, this meal was incredible. We had been eating like kings for the whole week, and this was no exception. We enjoyed meeting yet another Vietnamese family and exchanged stories and thoughts. We ate until we could eat no more, and decided that after all of the activity, we would go to a spa and relax.
We went to SF Spa in the old quarter and went in for what would be a 90 minute massage, steam and jacuzzi. It was the perfect way to relax and soak in all that had made Tet so special. This was the first Tet for the three of us, and we would have these memories forever. It was also the first chance to really relax since the holiday started. When it was finished, we all felt great, but also a little down because time was running out. We knew the ride was over, at least for now anyway. We shared one final coffee together and then one of my Vietnamese friends showed up to say her goodbyes as well. The ride for my friends also came, and we shared in a hug and said farewell. It was bon voyage for two, and now it was only me left from this adventure. My Vietnamese friend invited me to eat, and I was off for hot-pot again.
8:07 pm - Home, Hanoi:
I finally reached home and dropped my bags onto the floor as well as myself. I was exhausted and ready to sleep. I am a lucky person. I couldn't be with family for my first Tet, but I felt as if I were. My Vietnamese friends had been sure to take care of me and make me feel welcomed, as they always have, and once again they came through. For my foreign friends who were visiting, they were welcomed with the same enthusiasm. For all the people we met along the way, they became a part of this unique experience. We all felt blessed to share this special occasion together, with so many people, from so many places, and as I sat at home, feeling slightly somber that it was over, I realised just how blessed we all were to have these memories. All the laughter, stories, experiences and unexpectedness of this first Tet, only made it even more special. This has been one of the best weeks of my life. I sat down on my bed, looked around, and I thought about home, and how this feels like home. This IS my home now. Here's to a new year in Hanoi, and to many, many more memories. Thank you everybody, and thank you Vietnam, you are awesome.
We arrived in Lao Cai knowing that we must eat out of necessity. We were quite full from the tremendous lunch in Sapa but we were getting ready to take an old rickety train and there would be no more chance for eating until tomorrow. First, we needed train tickets. We tracked down the ticket broker and asked for our tickets. He handed them over and we asked if there were any way to upgrade in hopes of making the ride a little more comfortable. "No. Full," is all he said. We asked if there were any other trains, "No. Full." We asked if he was sure, "No. Full." We laughed and walked away, our destinies had already been sealed so it was useless to resist, besides, it was time for some food. Everything was still closed for Tet so we entered a hotel to satisfy our needs. We made our way up to the tenth floor. This must have been the tallest building in town and the view from the restaurant and lounge was peaceful. We found a quiet table to pass the time until our train departed. After some food and a glass of wine, we decided that maybe we should get a little extra wine, just in case, so we bought another bottle. At about 5:57 pm, we were scrambling out of the elevator and hustling to the train that was due to leave in 8 minutes. We made it on just in time...
6:03 pm Ga Lao Cai Station:
We boarded the train with about two minutes left before departure. We searched for our room and found it. Kristina (one of my friends that was traveling with me) saw it first. "Oh no," is all she said. I was a few feet behind her and when I saw what she saw I laughed. Our cabin had three adults and a baby. This meant a few things: 1. No music 2. No drinking in the cabin 3. No playing poker in the cabin 4. Very likely, no sleeping in the cabin as crying babies in a crammed room aren't really conducive to rest. As other people, whom we didn't know, saw their rooms, reactions were similar.
There were many foreigners on the train and it seemed that most of them had believed they booked higher quality trains. This train looked like it had been in use since the 40's and had never been cleaned. The thin, little mats were worse off than the ones we had come in on. They were clearly not new and certainly not clean. Oh well! It was too late now, the train was moving and there was no other hope in getting to Hanoi for the next few days. We decided to stand in the hallway and discuss our options. There really weren't any, other than to open some wine. We didn't have a wine opener so we asked around. I came across one room that was packed with foreign tourists from places such as Chile, France, Singapore, and more. They were all miserable with the conditions, and at this point I was over it. I decided the only hope was to make the best of this trip. Besides, this old train was starting to grow on me.
I struck up a few conversations and a Frenchman offered me a wine opener. That solved one problem. I started mingling with some of the people and before long, it seemed as if every foreigner on the train was standing out in the hallway like us. It was beginning to get crowded and curious eyes were peaking out of their cabins wondering what was going on. We decided to search the train for a drink and snack cart. We headed out in opposite directions and one person whom I had given my number to called me and told me that in cabin 3, they were selling beer and snacks.
"This way," I shouted. We made our way towards number 3 and while walking, ran into even more foreigners who joined our parade towards the front of the train. People were surprised to see the long line of people navigating their way through the train. We received bewildered looks from many locals who hadn't experienced this on a train ride before. I don't know if anybody has. We reached the cart and ordered all of what was left of the beer. We then made our way back to cabin number 8, armed with more than enough to make the ride interesting. We decided to set up shop in between car number 8 and 9, using the space between the two cars to make our own club. We hung speakers from the ceiling, plugged in an ipod, turned on some jams, and talked the night away, eventually fading out until there was no one left. The train ride became a sight to remember, and the next thing we knew, we were awoken in Hanoi at 4:30 am. One of the wonderful things about traveling is the people you meet, and we had turned an ordinary train ride into a night nobody would ever forget.
4:30 am - Ga Hanoi Station:
There was supposed to be a ride picking us up from the train station to bring us to the hotel. There was nobody waiting. We weren't surprised by this as we had booked the hotel by phone while on the train and just hoped they held our room. Walking around in search of a hotel at this hour wasn't an exciting prospect. We grabbed a taxi and headed to the hotel. We arrived at the hotel and had to wake up the man who was sleeping behind the desk. He was tired and it took him a little while to figure out what to do with us, but finally we got our room. We then crashed, knowing that the next day was the last for two of my friends.
11:12 am - Hanoi:
It was time to wake up again, slightly battered and bruised from the constant traveling, but ready for our day. We had been invited to a special hot-pot dinner with a Vietnamese family. Like the whole trip, this meal was incredible. We had been eating like kings for the whole week, and this was no exception. We enjoyed meeting yet another Vietnamese family and exchanged stories and thoughts. We ate until we could eat no more, and decided that after all of the activity, we would go to a spa and relax.
We went to SF Spa in the old quarter and went in for what would be a 90 minute massage, steam and jacuzzi. It was the perfect way to relax and soak in all that had made Tet so special. This was the first Tet for the three of us, and we would have these memories forever. It was also the first chance to really relax since the holiday started. When it was finished, we all felt great, but also a little down because time was running out. We knew the ride was over, at least for now anyway. We shared one final coffee together and then one of my Vietnamese friends showed up to say her goodbyes as well. The ride for my friends also came, and we shared in a hug and said farewell. It was bon voyage for two, and now it was only me left from this adventure. My Vietnamese friend invited me to eat, and I was off for hot-pot again.
8:07 pm - Home, Hanoi:
I finally reached home and dropped my bags onto the floor as well as myself. I was exhausted and ready to sleep. I am a lucky person. I couldn't be with family for my first Tet, but I felt as if I were. My Vietnamese friends had been sure to take care of me and make me feel welcomed, as they always have, and once again they came through. For my foreign friends who were visiting, they were welcomed with the same enthusiasm. For all the people we met along the way, they became a part of this unique experience. We all felt blessed to share this special occasion together, with so many people, from so many places, and as I sat at home, feeling slightly somber that it was over, I realised just how blessed we all were to have these memories. All the laughter, stories, experiences and unexpectedness of this first Tet, only made it even more special. This has been one of the best weeks of my life. I sat down on my bed, looked around, and I thought about home, and how this feels like home. This IS my home now. Here's to a new year in Hanoi, and to many, many more memories. Thank you everybody, and thank you Vietnam, you are awesome.
No comments:
Post a Comment