26 Oct 2010

The journey back to Vietnam

Laura Lam writes about her experience coming back to Vietnam to celebrate Hanoi’s 1,000th year.
Lotus pond at Temple of Literature
Zen Master Van Hanh, advisor to King Ly Thai To
Author in front of Chieu Doi Do Edict on Transfer of Capital
On the occasion of the 1,000 year anniversary of Thang Long (Ha Noi) in October 2010, I returned with other overseas Vietnamese for the grand celebration. For those of us who have been living away from our homeland for decades, it was a great honour to take part in this rare and highly significant national event.

During our ten days in North Viet Nam, we went to several important ancient sites in Ha Noi, Ninh Binh, Bac Ninh, and Ha Long Bay. The journeys were remarkable and the experiences left very deep impressions in our minds and hearts. Never before had I felt like a lost soul being reunited with the people of my beloved country. I felt extremely proud of the revolutionary spirits of our ancestors as well as appreciating the many beautiful landscapes, especially in Ha Long Bay. Each day, all activities were planned with great care and the hospitality was outstanding. We felt most grateful to our hosts - the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and the Committee on Overseas Vietnamese in Ha Noi.
In Ninh Binh, we visited the oldest imperial capital of Hoa Lu and its rural surroundings. The sight of buffaloes immersed in water brought my mind back to the early history lessons on the young Dinh Bo Linh, who played out the arts of war with buffalo boys through the staging of battlefields on this very piece of land. This youthful warrior later defeated the twelve rebellious armies, putting an end to political unrest and restoring social order throughout the country. When Dinh Bo Linh became Emperor Dinh Tien Hoang (968-979), he chose Hoa Lu for the monarchy’s seat of government. Hoa Lu continued to be the royal capital through the reigns of Le Dai Hanh and Le Long Dinh, known as the Tien Le period (980-1009).
The founder of the Ly dynasty, Emperor Ly Thai To, ascended to the throne in 1009, at age thirty-six. In 1010, Thang Long (Ascending Dragon) became the new imperial city, replacing Hoa Lu. Born as Ly Cong Uan, the future emperor was raised and educated at the Tieu monastery in Bac Ninh by the renowned Buddhist monk and Zen Master Van Hanh. In his “Edict on the Transfer of the Capital” (Chiếu dời đô), the emperor said Hoa Lu was too remote and wasn’t thriving. He argued that the new location of Thang Long was most auspicious, evoking the images of a coiled dragon and a seated tiger. The land was elevated and well exposed, being surrounded by favorable mountains and rivers. Earlier, Thang Long had assumed an important strategic position with the name Dai La. This referred to the Chinese Tang dynasty who ruled Viet Nam as a colony (886-875 BC).

Reigning over the country for 216 years, the Ly dynasty marked a golden era in Viet Nam’s long history. Thang Long was the great political, economic and cultural centre. The emperors, as devout Buddhists, regularly sought the guidance of Master Van Hanh and other Zen masters. They placed a strong emphasis on the promotion of higher education, competition in literature, performing arts, as well as on agricultural developments. One of their first agricultural incentives was the creation of a system of flood control along the Red River.

In 1070 Emperor Ly Thanh Tong built the first university for Viet Nam, known as the Temple of Literature, in the heart of Thang Long. The tranquil complex included a place for worship (Van Mieu) and the Imperial Academy (Quoc Tu Giam), occupying an area 530 metres long and 75 metres wide, surrounded by stone walls, court yards, flower gardens, and two lilies ponds. For at least seven consecutive centuries, this university was the place to educate royal princes, sons of imperial mandarins, members of the elites, and commoners who excelled in their studies. This institution was established with the underlying belief that human quality was the primary strength of the nation (Hiền tài là nguyên khí quốc gia).

The education system was based primarily on Confucian philosophy, with emphasis on the cultivation of virtue and the development of moral perfection. On personal duty and social conduct – for rulers or commoners - loyalty, justice and sincerity were illustrated in many of the stories related by Confucius. This set of ideas serves as guidelines for the achieving of a stable, orderly and peaceful society. Many graduates of the Academy became renowned warriors, historians, writers, mathematicians, diplomats, politicians, and administrators.

Along the entrance to the university, the 82 stone pillars represent the 82 national examinations held for PhD students from 1442 to 1779. Names of the 1304 candidates receiving the degree with high honors were carved on stone, together with the subjects studied. The carved tortoise at the foot of each pillar symbolizes perseverance, endurance, and stability.

In 1802, the founder of the Nguyen dynasty, Emperor Gia Long, decided to transfer the imperial capital to Hue, Central Viet Nam. In Thang Long, the Temple of Literature ceased to function as a university. In 1820, his son, Emperor Minh Mang changed the name Thang Long to Ha Noi (Land within Red River). The Red River’s valley, where Ha Noi is situated, is made up of several rivers, waterways, lakes, and canals. Tragically, Thang Long would suffer repeated artillery attacks by French troops during their invasion, which led to a century of France’s colonization.

Once the colonial regime ended at the Great Battle of Dien Bien Phu in 1954, the United States invaded South Viet Nam. During the American War, most of the ancient sites and precious relics in the North were destroyed by intensive bombing. Fearing further destruction, the 82 stone pillars at the Temple of Literature were removed and buried deep underground. Following the country’s reunification in 1975, Ha Noi once again emerged as Viet Nam’s national capital. The stone pillars were un-earthed and returned to their original locations.

In recent years, Ha Noi has undergone substantial development, with Viet Nam being a member of the World Trade Organization (WTO) and currently holding the leadership role in the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN). The thriving of local businesses and foreign investments brings economic advantages for Viet Nam, but also new challenges.

In the past seven years, the Temple of Literature has been chosen as the center to honor talented university students in all disciplines. Special privileges would be awarded to graduates with high honors, including automatic employment in their field of interest. For those who desire a higher education, they would be given the opportunity to study inside Viet Nam or overseas with generous financial support from the government.

The Vietnamese tradition places a very high value on the education of young people. For centuries, the rulers bestow recognition and privileges on those making meaningful contributions to the society. Viet Nam is currently a nation of young people, with at least four million Vietnamese living overseas. Among them are the generations in school, known for their intellectual ability and perseverance.

Regardless of their family background, rich or poor, or in which country they live, they would normally excel in their studies. The ideals of scholarship that are the legacy of Confucius will continue to shape future generations of the Vietnamese people.

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